Elizabeth Cudd

Liz Cudd was a second-year law student at the University of Virginia in Charlottesville, Virginia when she interned at Legal Aid of Cambodia. She spent summer 2000 with the Juvenile Litigation Project.

Tell us a little bit about yourself and your background.

In 1998, I graduated from Pomona College in Claremont, California where I majored in philosophy. After graduation, I moved to Washington, DC and spent one year working as an intern in the Office of the Administrative Assistant to the Chief Justice of the United States at the Supreme Court. While interning at the Court, I decide to apply to law school and eventually chose to enroll at the University of Virginia. I am currently a second-year at UVA.

How did you hear about Legal Aid of Cambodia?

While I was an intern in Washington, DC, I worked with a wonderful woman named Christie Warren who had lived in Cambodia for several years and worked for LAC. She spoke about her experience there with such fondness that I was immediately intrigued and interested in going. Her office was filled with pictures of Cambodia and every two weeks she received a copy of the Phnom Penh Post (a prominent newspaper in Phnom Penh) which she let me read. The more I learned about Cambodia – its traditions, its history, its people – and about Legal Aid of Cambodia, the more I knew I wanted to apply for a summer position at LAC. Christie was extremely supportive and told me to send my resume and a cover letter to Francis James who was responsible for LAC’s summer internship program. Had it not been for Christie, I might have missed out on an incredible opportunity!

How did you make up your mind to go?

It was not very difficult for me to make up my mind to go to Cambodia. After having heard about Christie’s experience and having read some about Cambodia’s people and culture, I knew that I wanted to work for LAC. Thus, in a sense, I had made up my mind about Cambodia even before I applied for a position at LAC.

Tell me about the process that got you to Cambodia.

Soon after accepting the offer to work at LAC, I started looking for an airplane ticket. (The longer you wait to buy a ticket, the more expensive it will be!). I contacted the other person who was chosen to intern at LAC, Kate Devlin, and asked her if she wanted to coordinate travel plans. She did, so we chose a travel agency and booked our tickets together to ensure that we would be put on the same flight. Having never traveled as far as Southeast Asia before, I found it comforting to fly with Kate. Usually I have no problem traveling alone, but in this case I was very glad to have someone familiar by my side.

In addition to purchasing an airline ticket, I also had some passport photos taken. You need to present a photo when you purchase your visa at the airport in Phnom Penh. A tourist visa costs approximately twenty-five US dollars.

What did you do to prepare for the trip?

Initially, I did some research on the Internet. The State Department publishes country reports and background information on most nations that can be accessed via its website at www.state.gov. In addition to reading State Department archives, I contacted the Center for Disease Control (www.cdc.gov) to see whether it recommended that I take any particular health precautions before leaving. Finally, my family gave me all sorts of guidebooks about Cambodia and Southeast Asia. (The Lonely Planet proved to be my favorite.) Although the reading I did gave me some idea of what to expect, I found myself feeling overwhelmed nonetheless when I arrived in Phnom Penh.

I did not contact any of the interns who had worked at LAC before me, but in retrospect, I wish I had. While I had read a lot of general information about Cambodia, I had read very little about LAC beyond the material posted on its website. I remember feeling very nervous about the possibility of being asked to do things that were far beyond my abilities as a first-year law student. Talking to someone who had already worked there would have provided me with valuable insight and eased a lot of my worries.

Did you take any health precautions?

Before leaving for Cambodia, I was advised to get a Hepatitis B and a Typhoid shot, but I carelessly chose to get neither. Fortunately for me, I remained healthy throughout my visit to Cambodia, but if I ever return I will not make the same careless choice again. I will talk to a doctor and get whatever shots he or she recommends. Although I didn’t get any shots, I brought a barrage of medical supplies including diarrhea pills, antacid, cold medicine, Tylenol, Neosporin, Calamine lotion, and bug spray. I was especially glad to have the bug spray and Calamine lotion because the mosquitoes were relentless. Finally, while I was living in Cambodia I was very careful about what I put into my body, and I washed my hands a lot. I avoided eating uncooked vegetables and any fruits that I did not peel myself. In addition, I did not drink tap water or any other water that didn’t come from a bottle. Once or twice I got an upset stomach after a meal, but overall I had virtually no health problems.

What did your friends and parents think of you going to Cambodia?

My mother and father were very anxious about my going to Cambodia. In fact, initially they were both against it. Fortunately, several of their friends have lived throughout Southeast Asia and were able to alleviate many of their fears and misconceptions about that area of the world. Unlike my mother and father, most of my friends were extremely supportive when I told them I was working for LAC. Some of them, however, joked that deciding to go to Cambodia would be the last decision I ever made because I would be eaten by a tiger or killed by a drug lord. Of course, neither of those things happened; I returned from Cambodia unscathed! I think many people have the idea that Cambodia is a very dangerous place to visit. I know my parents were extremely worried about my safety there, although they had no cause to be. Throughout my stay in Cambodia, I never felt unsafe or scared or threatened in any way. In fact, I felt just the opposite. Everywhere I went, I met people who were warm and welcoming, who were genuinely curious about me and my work at LAC.

What did you bring with you?

Although I tried to pack as little as possible, I brought more than I needed! First, I packed too much clothing. I brought a couple light sweaters in case it got chilly but, as I learned last summer, it does not get chilly in Cambodia. The rest of the clothing I packed was very lightweight, mostly linen skirts and cotton shirts. The hotel in which I stayed provided laundry service daily, so it was virtually impossible for me to run out of clean clothes. I probably could have survived the summer with only 4 or 5 days worth of clothing! (Plus, for very little money, you can have any item made for you at the markets.) As for footwear, I brought a pair of running shoes and my Tevas which I wore all the time. (Yes, I went running in Cambodia, but it is hot and humid even at 5:30 in the morning.) Finally, I packed some books, a walkman, and my laptop. LAC has a limited number of computers, so I found it extremely helpful to have my computer with me.

There are four things I wish I had brought with me but didn’t, and they are: 1) an extra bottle of contact lens solution, 2) some Purell (or any other waterless hand-soap), 3) plenty of one-dollar bills, and 4) presents, such as T-shirts or candy, for the LAC staff. 1) I ran out of contact lens solution during the second half of my stay and could not find more in any of the markets. (I did not, however, have a problem finding other toiletry items such as shampoo, soap, or lotion.) 2) I was able to buy Purell in the markets, but it was rather expensive. Bringing some from home would have saved me this expense. 3) One-dollar bills are a valuable commodity in Cambodia! (Incidentally, US money is accepted there.) Most things are very inexpensive, and paying with large bills is a hassle – often a vendor or moto driver can’t make change. 4) Over the course of the summer, I had received small gifts and food from various people at LAC. I had been shown such hospitality that I felt I needed to give something back. Although a scarf or book could not truly express how grateful I was, it was a start. Unfortunately, I had not thought to bring any presents for the LAC staff, but fortunately my mom agreed to send me some “I Love NY” T-shirts for me to distribute!

What were some of your first impressions of Phnom Penh upon arrival? Of LAC?

After gathering our luggage and purchasing our visas, Kate and I walked out of the airport into a huge crowd of moto drivers, police officers, and families waiting for relatives. It was raining lightly, and the air was hot and sticky. Two people from LAC had been sent to meet us, so we climbed into their car and headed for LAC. We received a tour of the office (which surpassed my expectations) and were introduced to most of the staff. Finally, Kate and I were dropped off at our respective hotels. I was very surprised at how nice they were. My room was immaculate and had a television, air-conditioning, and a mini-fridge! I hadn’t expected my accommodations would be quite so luxurious. I tried to call my parents to let them know I had arrived, but I was so exhausted that I couldn’t figure out how to make a long distance call so I just went to sleep.

The next day, Kate and I decided to explore the streets of Phnom Penh. The city was hot and dusty, and the roads were swarming with people on bicycles, on motos, and in cars. It was so busy. Initially, I found the idea of exploring Phnom Penh to be very intimidating, but Kate was fearless! We found a small covered market where women were selling everything from fruits and vegetables to writing paper. The aisles were so narrow and filled with vendors and customers negotiating, and friends chatting. The heat was stifling. Kate and I drew friendly stares and smiles as we navigated our way past booths and tables of food and merchandise.

Cambodia was the first third-world country I had spent any length of time in, and it took several weeks for me to adjust. In particular, I remember being struck by two things: the many smells of Phnom Penh and the condition of the roads. For the most part, the air in the US has a constant nondescript smell, but the air in Phnom Penh always seemed to be changing. One moment, I’d be overwhelmed by the pungent smell of garbage and seconds later I’d smell only the fragrance of banana cakes cooking over hot coals. It wasn’t only the smells that I found different, however, I was also struck by the roads. Many of them were dirt, and there were few traffic lights. Most people did not drive cars, but rather rode on motos. (Motos are like mopeds or small motorcycles.) Families of four and even five would pile on the back of just one! At first I was baffled by their ability to ride without falling off, but eventually I become very adept at riding myself. Although it took me some time to adjust to life in Cambodia, once the adjustment period was over, I didn’t want to leave.

Tell me about some of the projects and assignments you worked on.

I worked on a variety of projects throughout the summer. Initially, I assisted the Juvenile Litigation Project (JLP) with a report it was preparing in order to secure more funding. (The Juvenile Litigation Project consists of two lawyers and one legal assistant. It was established to provide juvenile offenders and victims with access to free legal representation.) Once I finished working with the Juvenile Litigation Project, I was asked to help put together a grant proposal. Specifically, I was asked to gather information about the employment history of each staff member and about other NGO’s with whom LAC has a working relationship. At the same time, I began collecting newspaper articles that mentioned LAC. The purpose of this project was to provide organizations interested in funding LAC with proof of the positive impact it had had on Cambodia.

One of the more interesting projects I worked on was a proposal to set up a unit of lawyers at LAC who would handle only domestic violence cases, rape cases, and other claims involving women’s issues. After gathering information about the issues that women in Cambodia face and meeting with individuals from local NGOs, I drafted a grant proposal for LAC to submit to two organizations who had expressed an interest in funding a women’s litigation unit. Finally, when I wasn’t busy working on any projects, I was able to help staff members edit emails, school papers, and other documents written in English.

Tell me a bit about your interactions with the staff at LAC.

Office space at LAC was rather limited, so I asked one of the directors if I could work at the conference table located on the second floor. The table was situated so that virtually everyone at LAC had to walk by it at least once a day. Working in such a central location enabled me to interact with most of the staff on a daily basis. Of course, because people were constantly walking by and saying hello, I wasn’t always a productive worker, but I think it was well worth it. I was able to form bonds with people by learning more about them day by day each time they walked by my table.

The friendships I made with people who worked at LAC were among the most rewarding aspects of my summer. I was invited to dinners and lunches, to drink palm juice in the countryside, to meet family members, to spend a Saturday lounging in a hammock along the river, and to ride bumper cars – the last thing I ever expected to do in Cambodia. I was even invited to a wedding!

I remember after I was offered the position at LAC, a friend of mine who had lived in Cambodia told me that she thought living there was easier than living in the US. I didn’t really understand what she meant until I had been living in Phnom Penh for several weeks. Generally, I have a tough time with transition. More specifically, I find it difficult to move to new places because I inevitably feel lonely and displaced. After having been in Cambodia for a month, however, I felt completely accepted and was utterly engaged by my life in Phnom Penh. I attribute the ease with which I transitioned to life in Cambodia to the people at LAC. I found them to be so genuinely kind, so compelling, so good; I finally understood what my friend meant when she said that she found living in Cambodia to be easier than living in the US. Immediately after my arrival, I was included in activities and invited to places by people who had only known me for a short while. The people at LAC treated me like a family member even though I was only a summer intern.

Did you get to travel at all within Cambodia? Where did you go/What did you do?

I traveled quite a bit around Cambodia. Two weeks after I arrived in Phnom Penh, I was invited to join one of the lawyers at LAC on a trip to Svay Rieng which is located east of Phnom Penh near the Vietnam border. He was traveling to Svay Rieng in order to interview one client and appear in court on behalf of another. It was during this trip that I tried my first and last baby duck egg, a Cambodian delicacy!

Not long after I returned from Svay Rieng, I was invited to attend a workshop that the Juvenile Unit had organized in Siem Reap, located about five hours north of Phnom Penh. (The Juvenile Unit consists of four legal assistants who conduct research and publish information about children and the Cambodian justice system.) The purpose of the workshop was to train police officers and prosecutors how to implement the Convention of the Rights of the Child. When the workshop ended, I took some time to tour Angkor Wat, one of the most beautiful and awe-inspiring places I have ever visited.

Towards the end of my internship at LAC, I accompanied Kate to Prey Sar where she was investigating a case involving the construction of a highway from Saigon to Phnom Penh. In addition to taking these trips, I had the opportunity to visit Phnom Penh’s courthouse to observe a hearing, to visit one of the city’s prisons, and to attend a conference at a local hotel concerning the implementation of the Convention Eliminating All Forms of Discrimination Against Women.

Finally, one weekend, I took a bus with two of my friends to Sihanoukville which is a lovely town located on Cambodia’s coast. The water was unbelievably warm, and the beaches were virtually empty. Sihanoukville was the ideal break from the noise and dust of Phnom Penh.

Any final thoughts on your time spent with LAC and its staff?

I was extremely impressed by the facility with which some staff members could speak and write the English language. (I became even more impressed after taking a couple Khmer lessons and trying to use what I had learned!) I also admired the willingness of everyone – particularly those whose English skills were limited – to engage me in conversation.(During college, I spent a semester studying in France and lived in fear of having to use my French!) I found that many members of the staff wanted to practice their speaking, and I was more than happy to help. In short, I did not feel that the language difference was a huge obstacle in my communications with the staff at LAC. As long as I spoke clearly and slowly, I was generally able to get my point across and with a little bit of patience, I was able to understand what was being said to me.

How has it affected your future plans and desire to practice a certain type of law?

Spending ten weeks in Cambodia interning for LAC solidified my sense of commitment to the law. Although it sounds cliched, I chose to pursue a legal degree because I thought that learning about the law – what it is and what it should be – would provide me with valuable tools to make the world a better place. There are so many people who don’t have access to legal representation, who aren’t protected by the rule of law, and whose rights are infringed upon or violated and remain helpless in seeking retribution. During my first year at UVA, I lost sight of these things and the reasons why I had chosen to pursue a legal career. In fact, I seriously questioned whether law school was right for me. My experience at LAC, however, changed that. It gave me an invaluable opportunity to witness the impact that the rule of law and lawyers can have, the difference they can make. Throughout the summer I watched as the attorneys at LAC worked tirelessly to ensure a better life for their fellow Cambodians. Their dedication to improve conditions in their country was extremely moving and inspiring. I left Cambodia determined to follow their example.

My experience at LAC was more meaningful and rewarding than any other I’ve ever had. I am truly grateful for having been given the opportunity to work there.